Patch pockets are one of the most versatile and practical details you can add to your garments. Not only are they useful for storing small items, but they can also become a decorative element that enhances the design of a jacket, shirt, pants, or dress. They’re also a great option if you’re just starting out in the world of sewing, as they are simple to make and don’t require complex techniques.
Below, I'll show you how to sew a patch pocket step by step so you can easily add it to any project.
Step 1: Cut the Pocket
The first step is to define the size and shape of the pocket.
You can download a printable file here.
You’ll find various shapes and sizes so you can sew the pocket you like best.
Trace the shape of the pocket onto the fabric and cut it out. The pattern includes a 1.5 cm seam allowance around the entire edge.
Step 2: Finish the Edges
To achieve a clean, professional finish, it’s important to finish the edges before sewing.
To do this, serge or overlock the entire edge of the pocket.
OVERLOCKING: This is a sewing technique used to prevent fabric edges from fraying. It involves sewing along the fabric edge, usually with a special stitch, to keep the threads in place and prolong the garment’s lifespan. You can use the “zigzag” stitch on your home sewing machine.
Step 3: Sew the Top Edge
On the top edge (the pocket opening), make a double fold: first fold 0.5 cm toward the wrong side of the fabric, then fold another 1 cm to hide the edge inside.
Press everything well to set the folds. Pin in place (or baste) and sew a straight topstitch 0.75 cm from the top edge.
TIP: You can use a decorative stitch instead of a straight one to add a special touch to your pocket.
Step 4: Fold the Edges
Make a 1.5 cm fold toward the wrong side of the fabric around the rest of the pocket’s edge.
Use an iron to press the fold well. You can baste it to hold it in place and make the next steps easier.
BASTING: A temporary stitch made with long, loose stitches. It’s used to temporarily join fabric pieces before sewing them permanently by machine or hand. This technique allows adjustments and testing without pins and can be easily removed after the final stitching.
Step 5: Position the Pocket
Before sewing, place the pocket on the garment in the desired position.
Use a ruler or measuring tape to make sure it’s properly aligned and level, especially if you’re placing two symmetrical pockets.
Pin or baste the pocket so it doesn’t move while sewing.
Step 6: Sew the Pocket
Now it’s time to sew!
Start sewing from the top edge of one side with a straight stitch as close as possible to the edge of the pocket (about 2–3 mm from the folded edge).
Sew down one side, continue along the bottom, and go up the other side—leaving the top edge open.
Reinforce the top corners : These are high-stress areas, so you can sew a small triangle or angled line at each corner to prevent them from unraveling over time.
Creative Variations and Decorative Details
Once you’ve mastered the basic technique, you can experiment with different styles and add decorative details.
- Decorative stitching: Use heavy thread in a contrasting color and try double or decorative stitches. Most home sewing machines have many decorative stitch options—explore them!
- Add accessories to the pocket: Design a flap to cover the opening, add a snap, make a couple of buttonholes, or sew on contrasting buttons.
- Double pockets: Layer a small pocket on top of a larger one for a more interesting and functional design.
- Patchwork: Divide the pocket into several pieces and use different fabrics for each to create an original look. Remember to add a 1 cm seam allowance to each piece you cut.
Sew Yours!
Sewing a patch pocket is a basic but very useful skill that allows you to personalize your garments and improve their functionality. With practice and attention to detail, you’ll achieve professional and original results. Dare to experiment with fabrics, shapes, and finishes to make your pockets unique!
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